Day 1 · Ferrol and the estuary
Start in the Magdalena, with its grid plan and glazed galleries. An hour and a half's walk explains the city before you reach the Arsenal.
In the afternoon, climb to San Felipe castle and drop to Doniños for sunset. With time left, Ares and Chanteiro give you the other shore of the estuary.
Day 2 · Eume or Ortegal
If you want forest, head to the Eume: Pontedeume, Caaveiro monastery and a short walk in the Fragas. Allow half a day and wear proper shoes.
If you prefer coast, drive to Cedeira, visit Santo André de Teixido and continue over the Capelada to Herbeira. Long, but doable in a day.
Tips
Don't try to see the whole district in a weekend: the Ortegal roads are slow.
Book ahead if coming in August. Outside summer, many coastal places close midweek.